The Aesthetics of A Month in Asia
Believe me, after you fly six hours from Singapore to Tokyo, and then change to another flight of thirteen hours from Tokyo to Washington D.C. one of the chief aesthetic questions in mind is was it worth it? We had a marvelous trip generally, but before we got to Angkor Wat on the trip I am not sure I would have completely answered yes to the the query. Angkor is the potential subject for a meditation unto itself, and I won't admix it here with more breezy considerations. Except to say it made everything very much worth it. No, instead I will dispense this piece of advice. If you are attracted to going, for instance, to Vietnam because you have heard about the lovely remnants of French Colonial past, and its charming people, please reconsider. Vietnam is a maelstrom and that storm is busiest eradicating whatever is left of its charming past. Imagine my surprise on learning that what had attracted most people on our cruise to Vietnam is that Ho Chi Minh City was, unbeknownst to me, the "Knock Off Capital of the World" now. Bags and bags of knock -off merchandise was what was lugged back. Apparently there is even a hierarchy of knock-offs. Ho Chi Minh City has the better quality knockoffs, wouldn't ya know, which means that whereas the "Cartier" watches purchased elsewhere would cease working after a week, with minute hands apparently falling off like mosquito wings, the Ho Chi Minh City knock-offs were reputed to last quite bit longer. Are you sensing how much I enjoyed Vitenam now? But real life there is counterbalanced on a cruise ship by being able to see Halong Bay and its mysterious rock formations. Nature wins.
The exception to this was in Da Nang with the Cham Museum. This is a museum devoted to the sculpture of the Cham people and it is housed in a building the from the beginning of the previous century. The building is a real dream of Colonial beauty mixed with syncretic touches in the ancient- temple direction. It is gorgeous and the collection is a lot of fun with strong beauties. So yes I suppose even Vietnam must be said to be worth it.
Considerations of worth are a lot easier in considering Taipei and Hong Kong. The National Museum in Taipei is very spectacular. The surprises were the very large portraits of Chinese emperors and empresses from the eleventh century. I have never seen anything remotely like this in Chinese art. These massive portraits have a colorful intensity and almost Goya-like canniness and sheen that almost made you shiver. They must consider these prize objects because they are behind very special huge glass partitions. Also, I always particularly like ancient bronze urns in Chinese art displays, and one usually encounters a handful. In Taipei you can feast your eyes on literally hundreds of the most spectacular variety.
One of the other fine things about Taipei is that the Chinese people there are quite different from those on the mainland. Let me avoid being too specific, but it is an important distinction. Which brings me to Shanghai. Without a doubt the highlight of our time there was the view from our hotel room at the famous Broadway Mansions Hotel. We lucked out and had an unbelievable view straight down the curve of the Bund. I could hear the clock tower playing its pentatonic chime pattern in the most unearthly fashion. It made the experience wonderful, as the Bund is very lovely. . I am glad because I basically disliked much else about Shanghai. When I recall a piece in the Washington Post a while back by Mr. Kennicott in raptures about the architectural glories of the place I really laugh again and again. That big island with all the crappy looking buildings is impressive for size, but withering for aesthetic integrity. This apparently is the world's future by the lights of some. I have seen the future, and it is really big and blinks a lot.
Well, at least the House special roast duck at Crystal Jade in Shanghai was a real work of art. I never tasted duck like that ever. So Shanghai was worth it.
But very surprisingly I have actually saved the best for last, of course, except for Angkor. That was our first stop, which we only initially did as a stopover, in Tokyo. Dear reader, please do not think the following is exaggeration. As to museums in all of Asia, the highlight for me was the Tomo Museum (Musee Tomo) of contemporary Japanese Ceramics. This ravishing museum opened since we were in Japan the last time. Speaking specifically of the exquisite display of fine craft, well, there is in my mind now the Tomo Museum on a height, and every place else in the world somewhere below. The ceramics are very easy to like, perhaps critically one could say "of a style", even if a great one. But the manner of presentation in this museum is off the charts for perfect and very Japanese equilibrium. In intriguing darkened rooms, curved display elements and diaphonous materials are used to create a very avante-garde sort of perfection. Also, profound ceramics emerge in light from squares of almost Rothko-like darkness. It seemed like almost incredible distillation of something very attractive and very elusive in the Japanese ethos. In Japan for as many times as you think you will encounter that elusive beauty you are more likely to encounter Hello Kitty or similar. The Tomo Museum is this essence in one place, in a great building too. It was an overwhelming experience. It is simply the museum I would recommend as most worth it to travel to in Asia!
Lastly, because we stayed at the Hotel Avanshell, which is quite a good deal for Tokyo with huge rooms, we ended up eating mostly at Korean restaurants very nearby, The Jap Chae in the these restaurants really brought tears to my eyes it was so heartbreaking delicious. The only problem is that now I know what this dish can taste like. It will make me wistful at our favorite Korean restaurants here which I do really appreciate for being as good as they are.
But ultimately the trip was worth it for Angkor Wat, but that is another story and a wonderful one.
Believe me, after you fly six hours from Singapore to Tokyo, and then change to another flight of thirteen hours from Tokyo to Washington D.C. one of the chief aesthetic questions in mind is was it worth it? We had a marvelous trip generally, but before we got to Angkor Wat on the trip I am not sure I would have completely answered yes to the the query. Angkor is the potential subject for a meditation unto itself, and I won't admix it here with more breezy considerations. Except to say it made everything very much worth it. No, instead I will dispense this piece of advice. If you are attracted to going, for instance, to Vietnam because you have heard about the lovely remnants of French Colonial past, and its charming people, please reconsider. Vietnam is a maelstrom and that storm is busiest eradicating whatever is left of its charming past. Imagine my surprise on learning that what had attracted most people on our cruise to Vietnam is that Ho Chi Minh City was, unbeknownst to me, the "Knock Off Capital of the World" now. Bags and bags of knock -off merchandise was what was lugged back. Apparently there is even a hierarchy of knock-offs. Ho Chi Minh City has the better quality knockoffs, wouldn't ya know, which means that whereas the "Cartier" watches purchased elsewhere would cease working after a week, with minute hands apparently falling off like mosquito wings, the Ho Chi Minh City knock-offs were reputed to last quite bit longer. Are you sensing how much I enjoyed Vitenam now? But real life there is counterbalanced on a cruise ship by being able to see Halong Bay and its mysterious rock formations. Nature wins.
The exception to this was in Da Nang with the Cham Museum. This is a museum devoted to the sculpture of the Cham people and it is housed in a building the from the beginning of the previous century. The building is a real dream of Colonial beauty mixed with syncretic touches in the ancient- temple direction. It is gorgeous and the collection is a lot of fun with strong beauties. So yes I suppose even Vietnam must be said to be worth it.
Considerations of worth are a lot easier in considering Taipei and Hong Kong. The National Museum in Taipei is very spectacular. The surprises were the very large portraits of Chinese emperors and empresses from the eleventh century. I have never seen anything remotely like this in Chinese art. These massive portraits have a colorful intensity and almost Goya-like canniness and sheen that almost made you shiver. They must consider these prize objects because they are behind very special huge glass partitions. Also, I always particularly like ancient bronze urns in Chinese art displays, and one usually encounters a handful. In Taipei you can feast your eyes on literally hundreds of the most spectacular variety.
One of the other fine things about Taipei is that the Chinese people there are quite different from those on the mainland. Let me avoid being too specific, but it is an important distinction. Which brings me to Shanghai. Without a doubt the highlight of our time there was the view from our hotel room at the famous Broadway Mansions Hotel. We lucked out and had an unbelievable view straight down the curve of the Bund. I could hear the clock tower playing its pentatonic chime pattern in the most unearthly fashion. It made the experience wonderful, as the Bund is very lovely. . I am glad because I basically disliked much else about Shanghai. When I recall a piece in the Washington Post a while back by Mr. Kennicott in raptures about the architectural glories of the place I really laugh again and again. That big island with all the crappy looking buildings is impressive for size, but withering for aesthetic integrity. This apparently is the world's future by the lights of some. I have seen the future, and it is really big and blinks a lot.
Well, at least the House special roast duck at Crystal Jade in Shanghai was a real work of art. I never tasted duck like that ever. So Shanghai was worth it.
But very surprisingly I have actually saved the best for last, of course, except for Angkor. That was our first stop, which we only initially did as a stopover, in Tokyo. Dear reader, please do not think the following is exaggeration. As to museums in all of Asia, the highlight for me was the Tomo Museum (Musee Tomo) of contemporary Japanese Ceramics. This ravishing museum opened since we were in Japan the last time. Speaking specifically of the exquisite display of fine craft, well, there is in my mind now the Tomo Museum on a height, and every place else in the world somewhere below. The ceramics are very easy to like, perhaps critically one could say "of a style", even if a great one. But the manner of presentation in this museum is off the charts for perfect and very Japanese equilibrium. In intriguing darkened rooms, curved display elements and diaphonous materials are used to create a very avante-garde sort of perfection. Also, profound ceramics emerge in light from squares of almost Rothko-like darkness. It seemed like almost incredible distillation of something very attractive and very elusive in the Japanese ethos. In Japan for as many times as you think you will encounter that elusive beauty you are more likely to encounter Hello Kitty or similar. The Tomo Museum is this essence in one place, in a great building too. It was an overwhelming experience. It is simply the museum I would recommend as most worth it to travel to in Asia!
Lastly, because we stayed at the Hotel Avanshell, which is quite a good deal for Tokyo with huge rooms, we ended up eating mostly at Korean restaurants very nearby, The Jap Chae in the these restaurants really brought tears to my eyes it was so heartbreaking delicious. The only problem is that now I know what this dish can taste like. It will make me wistful at our favorite Korean restaurants here which I do really appreciate for being as good as they are.
But ultimately the trip was worth it for Angkor Wat, but that is another story and a wonderful one.
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